Viktor&Rolf Women's RTW FALL/WINTER 2014
March 1, 2014
Viktor&Rolf’s Fall/Winter 2014 collection is in the same spirit as their felted Paris boutique where iconic references are transformed into something modern and new. Using the iconic grey melange knit v-neck sweater as an inspiration, the collection plays with this archetype to create surreal effects. Traditionally a more masculine piece, the musings on the grey sweater are feminine, comfortable and urban. Proportions are exaggerated and there is a play on two and three dimensional interpretations of knit stitches.
The collection begins with a sequence of surreal knit dresses in a boiled wool, based on the v-neck sweater. The dresses are voluminous in a free-form way and play with asymmetrical lengths and a cut-away silhouette. Knit is a continuous theme, also in two-dimensional trompe l’oeil artworks referencing knit cables. Whilst grey is the most important colour, hints of blue, orange and pixelated prints highlight the palette.
The juxtaposition within a single garment of sheer fluid fabrics on the one hand, and opaque compact fabrics on the other, gives a modern new attitude to pants, dresses and tops. A new softness emerges from the fabrications of this season; boiled and cable-knit wool, cashmere, jersey, georgette, velvet and bonded flannel.
The key footwear silhouette has a surreal trompe l’oeil effect: a belt with a metal faceted buckle wrapping around the shoe cinches its sole or heel, gently transforming its shape.
The house’s iconic Bombette handbag range evolves with this collection utilizing the same faceted buckle closure. Oversized bow-shaped clutches also complement the collection.
The show reveals for the first time the Atelier Swarovski by Viktor&Rolf Fall/Winter 2014 collection. Of the collection, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have said: “We wanted to put crystals on edge and give them a sense of mystery, as well as play with their contrasting matte and shining effects. By juxtaposing sparkling and velvet-covered crystals, we emphasise their brilliance and add a touch of surreal glamour. The jewelry collection features statement ‘Velvet Rock’ chokers, cuffs and rings, exploring the flocking technique against sparkling Swarovski crystal in black diamond and jet colour ways. The graphic, cut-out designs provides a luxurious, textured contrast to the highly polished crystal stones.
Music is by Joan as Policewoman and set-design by Studio Job.