HAUTE COUTURE / SS’22
With Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022, Viktor&Rolf create spectacular beauty, utilizing their work to transform the notion of fear — which the present currently offers — into something positive.
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With Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2022, Viktor&Rolf create spectacular beauty, utilizing their work to transform the notion of fear — which the present currently offers — into something positive.
Fear can be overpowering. There are always reasons to be afraid and the present offers many. The situation in the world, uncertainty about the future, our vulnerability, and lack of control. Such emotions can be paralyzing, however, they can also be used creatively.
The notion of fear made fashion artists Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren think of the glamorous allure of old Hollywood Dracula movies, where dramatic effects of light and shadow transform reality and create a feeling of alienation and suspense. Dracula symbolised a fear of societal change, one that is prevalent again in today's world.
The archetypal film scene of Dracula's deformed, elongated silhouette in backlight made Viktor&Rolf think of a look from their award-winning Hyeres collection from 1993, the collection that started it all. It had an exaggerated, high shoulderline, creating a distorted, elongated silhouette. As i the human figure was stretched to a maximum, glorifying the head and face while protecting the neck.
This season, the entire collection is treated with this same 'new' shoulderline.
Its play with proportions is typical of Viktor&Rolf's stylistic vocabulary. Fabrics are either crisp or gauzy, but always compact to support the architectural shapes. Colours are muted, playing on contrasts of dark and light, with some delicate pastels, chalk white and the occasional pop of cerise red.
The collection is crafted with a mingling of fabrics, notably using conscious materials through a first couture collaboration with TENCEL™ LUXE. This season's look is complemented with the third season of Melissa / Viktor&Rolf vegan shoes.
Chalk white faille is pleated into a bodice with ruffle sleeves and a
signature Viktor&Rolf waist bow and paired with a low-rising multi-layered tulle skirt.
Adorned with black flowers with silver appliqués that cascade into a ruffled hemline.
Cornflower blue silk moire is crafted into a sleeveless, exaggerated shoulderline dress that is encircled by a white silk moire waistband bow.
The tiered ruffle volant skirt, crafted from vibrant coral silk moire, is adorned with an exaggerated circular ruffle that orbits around the head.