HAUTE COUTURE / SS’24

While creating the Haute Couture Spring/Summer’24 collection, more than ever Viktor&Rolf had two polar opposites in mind. Polished versus raw. Studied versus improvised. Serious versus funny.

Contradiction and paradox are hallmarks of Viktor&Rolf's work. While creating the Haute Couture Spring/Summer’24 collection, more than ever Viktor&Rolf had two polar opposites in mind. Polished versus raw. Studied versus improvised. Serious versus funny.

Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture SS '24 proposes 28 all-black, signature silhouettes, shown in 7 groups of 4.

The first look of each group - a flawless couture outfit, meticulously finished by hand - serves as a blueprint and starting point for 3 consecutive iterations of the same design. Each of which investigates the creative (im)possibilities of a pair of tailor's scissors, when used spontaneously to experiment with decorative cutting. From minuscule holes in a rorschach motif to a ballgown hacked in half: holes and slashes are controlled and directed but also form instances of orchestrated chaos.

Viktor&Rolf try to control the chaos by meticulously hand-finishing each cut, slash and hole as well.

The designers created with this collection a paradox. The controlled polish of the finalized, 'perfect' couture outfits on show is at odds with the raw, experimental spontaneity of the scissor-cut designs. The first look of each group appears to be brand new and completed. But they form starting points for something even more new. What appears to be an end result actually proves to be a new beginning.

“Everything is in constant flux”, the designers conclude.

In this respect, the motto of La Sorbonne university - the venue of this show - ‘Creators of futures since 1257’ is significant.

The all-black collection is executed in various couture staples: velvet, sequins and satin, both fluid and compact. Absence of colour puts a resolute focus on the silhouette. And on the intricate cuttings that create slashes and holes in decorative patterns, allowing for the body to show in unexpected ways.

The looks are completed with black Falke stockings and Christian Louboutin heals in five different finishes.

SPOTTED AT THE SHOW

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COCO ROCHA
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CINDY KIMBERLY
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TINA LEUNG
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BELLA THORNE
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AMY JACKSON
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MISS FAME
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FREDRIK ROBERTSON
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TESSA BROOKES
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GKAY
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MALU BORGES

BEHIND THE SCENES

A BALL GOWN IS HALVED TO SHOWCASE THE CORSET AND CRINOLINE UNDERSKIRT. THE BLACK TULLE LAYERS ARE ARTISTICALLY CUT, CASCADING DOWN THE SKIRT, WHILE THE BOW ON THE BODICE ACCENTUATES THE GARMENT'S ENDING. 

INSPIRED BY VIKTOR&ROLF’S HYERES COLLECTION, THE TRENCH COAT IN HEAVY BONDED SATIN BOASTS A HIGH-WAISTED SILHOUETTE ADORNED WITH EXAGGERATED CUFFS, COLLAR, AND POCKETS.